Peugeot/Citroen 1.6 engine (TU5JP4)

The TU5JP4 engine under consideration today saw the light back in 1999 and for the next decade became the key gasoline engine installed in Peugeot and Citroen. But time takes its course, and in 2009 it was decided to replace it, favoring more environmentally friendly and advanced internal combustion engines, which included a very famous unit EP6. But only to meet this motor is still possible. The whole thing is that in 2012, it was used again, except that they changed the name to EC5. Now it can be seen on the cheapest cars of these brands: Citroen C5 and Peugeot 301.

This internal combustion engine is simple and without obvious flaws. No phase shifters, but the cylinder head is 16 valves, although there were also versions for 8. Also there are no any complex units. The classic intake manifold, electronic throttle, and the load on the motor is measured by an absolute pressure sensor and another temperature sensor.

Technical specifications

This is a very simple and high quality motor that can easily withstand more than 500,000 mileage without any special troubles. Which most often come from economizing on maintenance.

Problems and Reliability

Powering the gasoline pump

Peugeot 307 and Citroen C4, on which the motor in question is installed, often stop working due to problems with the relay of the gasoline pump. The engine refuses to pump fuel – causing it to lose pressure.

Find the problem relay can be found in the fuse box, it is located in the left side under the hood. To get access to it, you will need to dismantle and disassemble the block. Needless to say, if you broke down on the road, you will not be able to do this. But you can do otherwise, bypassing the failed relay. It is enough to make a jumper from the fuse F5 to F13. The gasoline pump should work. But this is a temporary solution.

Adsorber valve

Citroens and Peugeots with the engine under consideration have an adsorber, therefore, and a valve that blows it out. The adsorber is a special container where gasoline vapors are collected and gradually disposed of in the internal combustion engine. To put it as simply as possible: fuel vapors gradually accumulate in the tank, which are sucked into the adsorber and then go into the manifold.

The most common problem here is with the electro-valve connecting the adsorber and the manifold. It can overclip in the closed position, you can realize this by a loud bang, which will be heard when you open the tank cap. With such a sound, accumulated gasoline vapors burst out of it. But there are also problems with an open valve, because the tank will begin to accumulate rarefaction, which has a negative impact on the fuel pump.

And the valve also has a big impact on the functioning of the power unit. If it is broken and remains in the open position, unaccounted air will start to enter the manifold.

It is not so difficult to understand about the malfunction, because the internal combustion engine will seriously lose its power, it is noticeable strongest when working at 3-4 thousand revolutions. And the failure can be felt not only on cold, but also hot. Usually it is manifested in the following way: during rapid speed gain, usually on 2-3 gears, the power unit simply chokes, can trochee and literally glitches on the move.

In general, almost no one knows about this valve, because it does not produce errors. It is located on the engine panel, not far from the valve covers. In general, it is not so difficult to get to it and dismantle it.

But if you have already taken all measures to solve problems with power, but everything is in vain, then it’s time to try to remove and blow the valve from the inlet. On the manifold side it is not blown out if it is in good working order, but if you were able to do this – then it is out of order and you will have to buy a new one.

It is not even necessary to remove it, it is easy to check the operability with a running motor. However, you will need a diagnostic scanner and special software, in which there will be a parameter Canister Valve. When the opening becomes zero, it is enough to remove the tube from the valve, which comes from the adsorber and close the opening for a couple of tens of seconds. If you hear a pish after its opening, then this is a sure signal that the valve did not close.

Mechanical damage to the exhaust manifold

The manifold can easily crack in the area of the lambda probe. Symptomatology varies greatly and is tied to the number and size of cracks. For example, if you smell exhaust in the cabin – the cracks have reached a serious size. There are also problems with regulation, which happens because air is getting to the probe from the outside. Of course, the engine will try to correct the fuel mixture, but this will cause loss of power, tripping and a lot of fuel-air mixture errors.

Oil leaks

Unfortunately, gaskets leak after 40-50 thousand, even on a very fresh motor. But this is nothing, oil can leak on the camshaft beds, which will cost much more in elimination. It will be necessary to dismantle not only camshafts, but also their beds, as well as scrape off the hardened factory sealant and put a new one.

MAP sensor

The MAP sensor, aka DAD, determines the data by which the unit selects the load on the motor.

If the MAP-sensor is out of order, it is easy to understand by the loss of power at the same 3-4 thousand revolutions. But specifically in this case, the power failure is random, because it occurs on a “hot” internal combustion engine, and then disappears.

If the temperature sensor is out of order, then the motor is very dull, but only in strong heat.

It is very easy to check whether the sensor is working or not. It is enough to take a voltmeter and ring it, and then use the table and compare your voltage readings with the factory ones. If the sensor has failed, you will have to buy a new one, but it is inexpensive, its average price ranges around 25 dollars.

Thermostat

Due to the fact that the housing is made of plastic, it is not particularly durable. Again, from overheating, plastic is often deformed and simply cracked, starting to leak antifreeze. Moreover, it is not uncommon for the thermostat to fall out of the housing, which causes underheating of the internal combustion engine. In short, plastic is a terrible choice.

Throttle valve

If in the work of the car appeared “floating” idle speed, or jumps after starting the engine, then it’s time to clean the choke. Do not forget that after installing it in place, it will be necessary to initialize.

Lubricating fluid in the plug wells

This is the most common malfunction of the internal combustion engine under consideration today. Most often the gaskets are to blame for this, which let oil in. But there are also cases when the lubricating fluid enters through the connection of crankcase ventilation tubes.

The injectors

With them everything will be fine if you drive only on good fuel. But if you buy cheap and low-quality, then there will be ignition skips, and gasoline consumption will increase. However, it is not necessarily the injectors that will be to blame. But if the fault lies on them, and some of the injectors stopped functioning, there will be errors, their number P0200-P0204. As practice shows, most often the injector of the fourth cylinder fails.

It is easy to clean them, though, for this you need a special tool. Do not forget also about the need to supply them with 12 volts to completely clean the injector.

Ignition coil

Perhaps it is the ignition coil that causes the most problems. In fact, the engine is equipped with a pair of coils, they are located in the block and serve 4 cylinders, a pair for each.

If it is out of order, the engine will have ignition skips, which manifests itself as follows:

• Trottling.
• Jerking at idle.
• Jerking during speeding up.

Most often these symptoms appear once, but only as the car is operated with a broken coil, they will appear more and more often. This can last for some time, but it always ends the same way – both cylinders will shut down.

Operability is easy to check with a multimeter, good thing on the Internet it is easy to find a guide to check it. But remember that the coil is checked on cold, and when it is heated up to 80 degrees. Multimeter is prozvaniruet primary resistance pairs of cylinders. Most often the breakdown pops out on a heated coil.

Due to the fact that the internal combustion engine is “not the first freshness”, folk craftsmen have long known how to repair it. The coil breaks due to the fact that there is a wire break at the point of connection with the bus. The problem can be solved by simple soldering. But only before this you will have to disassemble the coil, remove a huge layer of dielectric, and after repair, again cover everything with dielectric.

The timing belt

Replace the belt with a new one after 60 thousand. And yes, we will say at once that it is better to buy a new belt from good suppliers, because the lion’s share of power units considered today, died from belt breakage.

Much less often, but it happens that the pump fails. It will have to be replaced and a new belt will have to be put on right away. Usually the pump becomes loose over time, the pulley tilts, and this causes the belt to slip.

Cylinder head gasket

It’s really rare for a gasket to blow on a motor. But if it does happen, antifreeze will not get into the oil.

Cylinder block head and its malfunctions

The most famous and common problem with the cylinder head is caused by hydrocompensators. In principle, they withstand 200-250 thousand, but then there is a loud knock in their work, and the motor works with a rattle.

This problem is easily eliminated: camshafts are dismantled and new hydrocompensators are installed. But it is not necessary to buy new ones, because they can be easily disassembled and cleaned from oil suspension.

Also a common problem is the marriage of the sockets of the guide bushings, leading to leaks, the lubricating fluid seeped through the gap between the guide and the socket. Of course, all this translates into a huge burn: about half a liter per thousand. Do not forget to use an endoscope and make sure that the oil burning is caused by the defect. If the naked eye can see the oil leaks from the valves, then the head is definitely to blame. At one time, it was completely replaced under warranty.

There are still known cases when the valve guides did not withstand. But this is characteristic only for power units with impressive mileage. The guide is destroyed, from this there is a characteristic knock of valves, and the caps let the lubricating fluid flow abundantly on the valves. The problem is easy to cope with: lapping, new caps and re-tooling of the valves will be required.

Malfunction, characteristic of cars with impressive mileage – valve burnout. Exhaust valves are most often affected.